I bought the car with 175,000 miles for $2,300. It was a 5.0 car with a 5 speed. I drove the car for about a year and a
half before I took it off the road.
The after market parts already in the car were: Catback Borla 2.25 inch stainless steel dual exhaust, FRPP aluminum
drive shaft, SVO (McCleod) aluminum quadrant, and random oil pressure and temperature gauges.
Motor Mods: had DUI ignition (high performance Screamin' Demon coil, module, cap and rotor, live wires spark plugs
wires, and NGK spark plugs.
I was lucky enough to have one picture of my car before I started work, that I had taken with my cell phone. Blech!
half before I took it off the road.
The after market parts already in the car were: Catback Borla 2.25 inch stainless steel dual exhaust, FRPP aluminum
drive shaft, SVO (McCleod) aluminum quadrant, and random oil pressure and temperature gauges.
Motor Mods: had DUI ignition (high performance Screamin' Demon coil, module, cap and rotor, live wires spark plugs
wires, and NGK spark plugs.
I was lucky enough to have one picture of my car before I started work, that I had taken with my cell phone. Blech!
| Progress Page 1 |
Initially, the car was sidelined due to a combination of a dirty fuel pump sock (at full throttle, the car cut out at
3,000 rpm's as if the brakes were being applied due to the dirty fuel pump sock- couldn't maintain flow to support
high rpm full throttle driving) at roughly the same time the alternator died, which killed the high mileage battery. It
was at that time that I decided to start my build, which I had planned to do all along.
When I finally took my car off the road, the first thing I had to do was tear down the entire car. First, I had to
remove the entire interior of the car, including the dashboard and headliner, as well as remove the doors.
Next, I removed the nose of the car, by taking off the fenders, wheel wells, headlight panel, headlights, bumper
cover, bumper, and trunk lid.
Then I took out the radiator, motor, transmission, drive shaft, rear end, gas tank, front and rear suspensions,
stock brake lines, and stock fuel lines.
3,000 rpm's as if the brakes were being applied due to the dirty fuel pump sock- couldn't maintain flow to support
high rpm full throttle driving) at roughly the same time the alternator died, which killed the high mileage battery. It
was at that time that I decided to start my build, which I had planned to do all along.
When I finally took my car off the road, the first thing I had to do was tear down the entire car. First, I had to
remove the entire interior of the car, including the dashboard and headliner, as well as remove the doors.
Next, I removed the nose of the car, by taking off the fenders, wheel wells, headlight panel, headlights, bumper
cover, bumper, and trunk lid.
Then I took out the radiator, motor, transmission, drive shaft, rear end, gas tank, front and rear suspensions,
stock brake lines, and stock fuel lines.
The next step I had to take was to address the areas on the car that are prone to rust, which are the
front right section of the passenger side floor pan and the front left section of the driver side floor pan. I
cut out approximately a 5"x 6" section of floor from each side, fabricated new patches, and welded them
on.
front right section of the passenger side floor pan and the front left section of the driver side floor pan. I
cut out approximately a 5"x 6" section of floor from each side, fabricated new patches, and welded them
on.
I then addressed the chassis damage that my car had, which consisted of damage to the passenger side
frame rail and radiator support. The car had a light hit which pushed the passenger side the rad support was
also damaged along with the passenger side apron and headlight opening.
I decided to remove the entire rad support and aprons due to the mildly rusted lower section of the rad
support (inside rad support). At this time, I made the decision to make my own aprons due to the lack of
availability of OEM Ford aprons. I also wanted to be able to smooth the engine bay, eliminating any holes that
were there.
frame rail and radiator support. The car had a light hit which pushed the passenger side the rad support was
also damaged along with the passenger side apron and headlight opening.
I decided to remove the entire rad support and aprons due to the mildly rusted lower section of the rad
support (inside rad support). At this time, I made the decision to make my own aprons due to the lack of
availability of OEM Ford aprons. I also wanted to be able to smooth the engine bay, eliminating any holes that
were there.
| One of the earliest pictures of when I started to take the car apart. December 2003 |
| After I brought the car to work, car was on frame table and passenger side frame rail was pulled, and kink was removed. Both frame rails are now identical. Also, I fixed the cowl and roof in this picture. Once car was brought home, I removed aprons and rad support structure. |
| Stock rad support. It is obvious to see why it went to the garbage. |
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